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New barn
Cutter, a neighbor picked up at an auction a car/truck hoist for $ 1600 that straddles the vehicle and lifts from the sides. I'd make sure the heighth would accommadate something like that. Also,220 volts,phone, water and propane are mighty handy in a workshop. A blacktop access on the southern side of a building soaks up those winter sun rays helping with snow / ice removal. A truss 2d story floor can eleminate posts on the first floor. Eight or even nine foot double door is nice for getting big things in at an angle to store things off to the sides. Also consider burying an electrical line between the house and barn/workshop so a portable generator can use propane to feed the house electricity with out all that noise. RCH
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cutter, by a double door I meant a 16 or 18' garage door; they seal up nice if adjusted properly,they lend themselves to remote openers and they are great for working on machinary half in the shop, especially when welding fumes, pressure washing or water, painting or blowing dust. I'd sugggest a serious REVERSIBLE exhaust fan to save your lungs.
For a shop within a larger building consider insulating it with Icynene,which is sprayed on walls and ceiling. It is a high R insulating material so a 4" inside wall is enough, it adds to the structural integrity of the building, it seals the shop off from the rest of the building for better ventilation and dust control. People love radient floor heat in a shop.
I would start thinking now about how & where you're going to hang tools on the walls, the placement of a compressor and outlets, electrical outlets inclunding 110 and 220 volts, inside and outside walls; water faucets.
Re water, use 3/4" pipe and 3/4" ball valves to preserve the 3/4" diameter in the building. Run a one inch supply to the building if it is any distance. you will forever enjoy the benefits of the Pouissville-Hagen equation where the volume (flow) is proportional to the 4th power of the radius( a 19 % increase of the radius doubles the flow asumming the pressure, viscosity and round configuration of the pipe are constant- throw in a friction factor for length, elbows etc).You can get a hydrant the has an electrical heat probe about 15" long that you can control with a thermostat. Plumb any exposed water lines so you can drain with gravity or,since compressed air is available, blow them out.
There are three resources that have been invaluable to me regarding constuction product and techniques. http://www.taunton.com/fh/ is the url for FINE HOMEBUILDING which is readily available at any comprehensive newstand. A favorite is THE JOURNAL OF LIGHT CONSTRUCTION, url http://www.jlconline.com/ If you subscribe to JLC pretend you are in the building trades ; they have this notion that are only " for the trade". FARM SHOW at http://www.farmshow.com/ is a unique publication with no advertising in the print version with many shop ideas plus a plethora of ideas, inventions, techniques out of farm workshops. There are also candid evaluations of products (hence no advertising) that you want find anywhere except CONSUMERS REPORT. I remember several months ago someone here had a Canadien goverment site with plans for barns/workshops that seemed pretty good as a starting point.
One thing I found for sure was that many builders and subcontractors were NOT knowledgable about new construction products and often where unaware of well known failures of products. I'd be leery of the low bidder. It's important to have a contractor that not threatened by a knowledgale consumer and is established enough so that sub contractors will do a good job so the'll get subsequent jobs. Your part is to have good plans without any changes once you get started and show up twice a day to check on things. To enjoy the experience put it out of head that it's costing $2000/ day! RCH
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Rodger, I grew up with 2 "grease pits" in a Gulf station in the Detroit area. 1) make sure there are no drainage problems or put a sump pump in. 2)The width gets tricky with narrow tractors, vans etc. Around 1950 I remember dropping a Crosley car into the pit with makeshift planks to narrow the footprint. I'd suggest a rectangular pit using the lip and plank coverage you suggested situated so you can put the vehicle over it long ways or cross ways. 3) I can tell you from experience, crawling in and out of that pit to get tools gets old fast.
Putting animal stalls on the downhill side is a great suggestion. Also a floor drain really helps keep a workshop clean, both from ice and snow on vehicles and cleaning up. However, code wise its a no-no because of the possible contamination of the enviorment with hydrocarbons.
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cutter, either in FINE HOMEBUILDING or J OF LIGHT CONSTRUCTION was an article of how to use a hot water tank as a heat source for radient floor system by making a return loop to the tank using the clean-out faucet at the bottom of the tank, a circulating pump and controls. There have been several articles about exactly what kind plastic hose to use ( it's called PEX), how to lay out the pattern , the connectors to use and the controls and pumps. With a dedicated " outside" radient floor heating system usually they run an antifreeze solution so it won't freeze up and bust something; a system utilizing a hot water tank would preclude that or you would lose the hot water advantage.I know there is a relatively new combined water heater and area heater using forced air but having a heated slab AND hot water would be divine. You would have to pour the slab over 2" styrofoam and put styrofoam around the perimeter so you're not trying to heat the ground. You may want a well insulated little closet for the water tank and above ground tubing and machinary.
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Here is a link at the THE JOURNAL OF LIGHT CONSTRUCTION re hot water tank based radient heating system. It has no provision for a hot water tap. Here is the url for cut & paste if the link doen't work ( I think the link puts in 2 "http://" if you're not carefull and corrupts the address if you use cut & paste to transfer the url to " Include a Link URL". I'd appreciate the Webmaster's comments)
http://www.jlconline.com/jlc/archive/energy/water_heater_heat/page3.html
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Actually this URL starts at the beginning of the hot water tank as a heat source discussion on THE J OF LIGHT CONSTRUCTION site
http://www.jlconline.com/jlc/archive/energy/water_heater_heat/index.html
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Here is a link to the kind of vehicle hoist I was refering to. I see it takes a 12' ceiling. http://www.homestead.com/advequip/files/y2kspecs.jpg
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Here is another good discussion on radiant heatig. Page 5 reviews the technical aspects of the various tubings including PEX
http://www.taunton.com/fh/features/materials/hydronicfloor/1.htm
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Bifold Doors
Since we are seriously talking about a shop I am wondering has anyone had any experince with bifold doors. See the link or cut & paste. http://www.bifold.com The do not encroach an head room so a 12' car lift could be close to the opening. The also look like they would provide an "awaning" for sun and rain. Also no shoveling in order to open with snow. Can you have a window in them, do they seal good for a heated space, etc ?
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